This town is still relatively small and picturesque (especially compared to Saigon),

but on the verge of big changes.

There are still old landmarks like Hoan Kiem Lake, right in the center of town,

and moments for reflective gaming (and a smoke), right in the center of town.

There are also fine local restaurants with traditional music

and staff that will even braid your hair while you eat supper.

The rest of life around here is an incubating growth machine, fuelled by

rampant small enterprise and carried around on a thousand bicycles and motorcycles.

When we arrived, we moved in with Danish friends who had a house on West Lake

There is a kumquat nursery across the street. These are Vietnamese "Christmas trees,"

given as gifts on the Lunar New Year. There are also a lot of nice temples in this neighborhood.

And even a modern water park!